PDA

View Full Version : 97 360 running rough, suddenly using oil


TEE BEE
07-15-2009, 07:52 AM
:( Hello, looking for advice on engine behavior. 1997 360 with 150,000 three months ago started using two quarts between changes (was 1/2 qt). It is not smoking or leaking any oil, coolant is clean and green. Check engine light came on, started running rough, loss of power, surging. Then is would run fine for several days and the warning light would go out. Then is would happen again and the cycle time between occurances is becoming shorter. Took it to a Dodge dealer for diagonisis. They said the intake gasket is leaking and allowing it to suck in oil, probably damaged the the oxygen sensor. And they want $1300 to fix it. Has anyone else had this issue, or believe what they are saying? If it is the intake gasket and ox sensor, I can replace them myself.

Tbird100636
07-19-2009, 01:54 PM
:( Hello, looking for advice on engine behavior. 1997 360 with 150,000 three months ago started using two quarts between changes (was 1/2 qt). It is not smoking or leaking any oil, coolant is clean and green. Check engine light came on, started running rough, loss of power, surging. Then is would run fine for several days and the warning light would go out. Then is would happen again and the cycle time between occurances is becoming shorter. Took it to a Dodge dealer for diagonisis. They said the intake gasket is leaking and allowing it to suck in oil, probably damaged the the oxygen sensor. And they want $1300 to fix it. Has anyone else had this issue, or believe what they are saying? If it is the intake gasket and ox sensor, I can replace them myself.
The intake valley pan gasket is a very common issue on Magnum 5.2L and 5.9L engines. It is about a 6 hours labor to replace. If you were to do the job yourself, the parts you need to get are the intake manifold gaskets, the intake valley pan gasket, the valley pan bolts, the intake manifold bolts, the intake-to-front cover bypass hose, and a thermostat and thermostat gasket. The thermostat is so much easier to do with the intake removed than in the truck, as it's a common leak. The bypass hose is most likely original, best time to do it. The valley pan bolts have been revised for better torque retention. The main culprit of your issue the valley pan gasket has been revised too. The intake manifold gaskets obviously becvause the intake has to come off. The intake bolts because these can snap off when removed or reinstalled and they are corroded. The distributor does not have to come out. You just unbolt the Alternator/ A/C compressor bracket with both items still attached and connected, just set it aside. Everything else is straight forward. I haven't seen a valley pan gasket result in a contaminated O2 sensor, but at the truck's age, anything is possible. Don't go with aftermarket parts, get it all from the dealer.

TEE BEE
07-20-2009, 05:51 AM
Thanks, Tbird100636, really apprecaite the info, took two of us closer to 12 hours to complete since it was our first time and we labeled everything. Also spent about two hours cleaning the old gasket off the aluminum parts. It is back together, run good for about twenty minutes, and the check engine light came on, runs rough at time, no power at times. Looking at replacing the the three "OX" sensers this weekend.

TEE BEE
07-22-2009, 09:39 AM
Why do you say to use original dealer parts?

Tbird100636
07-22-2009, 08:28 PM
Why do you say to use original dealer parts?
Mostly because you wouldn't be able to get the correct bolts for the intake and valley pan.